Don't Worry, There's Plenty of Food?
The food system may not be broken but it sure does looks wobbly right now.
Photo by Boris Dunand on Unsplash
Ever since I started covering the food system 7,000 years ago (seriously, what even is time?), I’ve heard from agricultural advocates or “agvocates” as they like to be called that the U.S. has one of the strongest and healthiest food systems in the world. And since the beginning of this pandemic, we’ve also been not to worry about the food system. Don’t worry, they say, there’s plenty of food and no real shortage. Just a temporary surge in grocery buying. Okay then but, why, weeks later, are consumers still finding empty shelves at the supermarket. What’s going on?
While in many ways it’s true the U.S. food system is safe and strong—food is plentiful and relatively cheap—but that’s never been quite the whole story. 12.3% of Americans are food insecure. 39.4 million live in food deserts without consistent access to fresh fruits or vegetables. And we tend to farm a heck of a lot of corn and soy over other more healthful and diverse rotations like, say, lentils and sweet potatoes.
Still, the system is efficient. In fact, grocery stores have felt the pressure to become even more efficient in recent years to combat food waste, suggests agricultural economist Jayson Lusk, PhD, but a food system that lean can’t also accommodate a huge surge in grocery buying. The sudden nationwide interest in yeast and flour combined and the complete halt in supply chain flow to restaurants and the food service industry weren’t outcomes anyone planned for.
Last night on CNN, former USDA Secretary Dan Glickman said we need to figure out a way to get the dairy once headed for schools and hotels now being wasted and the produce intended for restaurants now being plowed back into fields delivered to the many citizens lining up for miles at food banks. But how do we do that?
And there’s more:
USDA released details about its CARES relief funding package but there appears to be no guidance about providing farmworkers with personal protective equipment or PPE. Information about workplace leave is buried in the rural relief guide.
Growers in California are making a donation to charities who sew masks for their workers.
Maine Congresswoman Chellie Pingree says the USDA funding leaves out small farmers and ranchers.
Smithfield, JBS, Tyson and Cargill (a more comprehensive list is here) have all closed meat processing plants as workers test positive for COVID-19. Industry advocates are asking the federal government for PPE, warning of meat shortages if plant closures continue. But any short term shortages have not been caused by closures but by shoppers hoarding meat.
Hormel union workers in Minnesota are asking to be reclassified from essential workers to first responders to increase their odds of getting access to PPE.
The CARES Act Paycheck Protection Program or PPP ran out of funding this week, leaving many restaurant owners and other small business owner applicants empty-handed, still waiting for their funding to come through.
On the other hand, even those restaurants who actually got their funding are now afraid to spend it thanks to restrictions built into the law that only allow loan forgiveness if you spend the money within eight weeks, a tough ask for restaurants who are either shuttered or operating at a much smaller capacity.
Treasury Secretary Steve Mnuchin says lawmakers are “very close” to a deal on more funding for PPP, assuming negotiations don’t break down again.
Stories I’m working on:
The meat vs plant-based debate rages on as coronavirus heightens pressure on producers.
Restaurant technology can help show consumers their food is safe.
One thing I’m reading:
The Allure and Anxiety of Drinking Alone in Quarantine, Alice Feiring, Grubstreet.
One thing I’m drinking:
D.C.-based Show of Hands Daiquiri in a coupe glass from Salt & Sundry.
One thing I’m baking:
bagels, recipe courtesy Food & Wine.
More drinking and bagel-making ensues on my Instagram.
